ECU not Visible - 2000 R1150GS

[WayneC]

No worries, good to hear you are getting it all sorted, Jughead is the one who should be thanked, he shortened the test process I was leading you down

[Onions]

Well the bad news is it ain't sorted. I'm even more confused now.

Started was running great got 100M down the road and just stopped dead.  Came home made sure fuel in the bike, put GS911 on and tested saw the ECU 2 fault codes Hall Sensor. This is new so I know it can't be that. Turned bike off had a ponder turned bike back on and it can see the ECU but not retrieve the fault codes. Do u think it could be the side stand switch say got a bumped and failed - what is the best way to short it out so that is always on? Start there first I think.

[WayneC]

As I indicated previously I am not really familiar with the 1150 model but side stand switch issues could well be a factor, on the 650GS a wire loop can be made with 1/8" spade connectors to plug into the side stand switch connector to bypass it without damaging/modifying the wiring. Rather handy in the spares kit out on the road

The side stand switch configurations I have seen are 3 wire, one wire is earth and the earth is extended to one or the other of the 2 wires dependent on whether the stand is up or down. That means it is safe to simply join all 3 wires with the loop plug but I would suggest checking it is the same on your 1150 before trying it

[Onions]

Yeah I will check with meter first - don't know what else it could be except switch or the Motronic. I know a BMW Twins Mech here but he is way to busy to even look at it and good BMW Mech are rare here so have to do it myself. He said he doubted that it would be the ECU as they rarely fail.

[WayneC]

I would tend to agree re the Motronic, the ECU's I am familiar with are very robust and a couple on my test bench should be dead from the treatment they received before I acquired them but they still perform properly

One odd fault we have seen in other models with diodes in the starter circuit lockouts is ultra sonic welding failing and glass encapsulated diodes cracking. In one infamous case here dealers could not resolve where the machine would start and then stop the diode connections would be OK when cold and then break connection when hot or subjected to vibration. It was a 50 cent repair with replacement diodes from an electronics store but a pain to track down

[Jughead]

The hall sensor errors are normal if the motor was not turned over or running during the read process.  You can ignore them.  That does however not mean that they are not faulty.  Is the hall sensor you installed a new unit?  Or is it 2^nd hand?

These units often work fine while cold but fail as they warm up.

You need to determine if it is a spark issue or a fueling issue.  One of them is missing.  Could very well be a fuel pump if the bike has been standing for a while.  Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?  Fuel pump is the same as the BMW 318i.

Check for corrosion on the mini relays.  Relays 7 & 8 are critical. 7 is the fuel pump relay, 8 is Motronic relay.  You can exchange the mini relays with one another in the same row, provided they are all the same colour.  Incidentally, there are black and yellow relays (and some blue) on the later bikes.  The functions are exactly the same, but I think the yellow ones have a higher current rating than the black ones.  If you need to replace them, replace with the yellow ones (Part number: 61 36 6 902 041)

Check fuses 5 & 6.  5 is Motronic/Diag connector, 6 is fuel pump.

WRT the sidestand.  My recommendation would be to unplug it and bridge it out.  As you have discovered, it cannot just be unplugged.  Here's a pic of how to bridge it out.  Just use a crocodile clip test lead the short out these 2 pins.  Or (if you feel like cutting into the harness, which I wouldn't recommend) splice the wiring behind the connector.  Yes, Wayne, it is exactly the same as the 650.
                                           

Hope this all helps!

[Onions]

Thanks mate done those things even had an auto electrician mate have look. So tomorrow going to attack the side stand switch and bridge it out as suggested.

The hall sensor is a new unit.

These units often work fine while cold but fail as they warm up.

You need to determine if it is a spark issue or a fueling issue.  I will recheck tomorrow.

Could very well be a fuel pump if the bike has been standing for a while.  No used regularly and I have pulled out cleaned and a new filter installed.

Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?  Yes can hear it when key is turned in addition bench tested and it is working.

Check for corrosion on the relays.  Checked 8 all ok will check 7 tomorrow but don't think it is a problem as pump works when ignition is switched on.

You can exchange the relays with one another in the same row, provided they are all the same colour.  Might try that.

If you need to replace them, replace with the yellow ones (Part number: 61 36 6 902 041) - OK

Check fuses 5 & 6.  5 is Motronic/Diag connector, 6 is fuel pump. Checked.

Thanks Jughead.

[Jughead]

[emoji106]

[Jughead]

Pull the injectors and crank the motor.  Have a look if they are actually spraying a fuel mist.

[Onions]

OK.

[Onions]

Well the thing is driving me nuts.

I am going to replace all the relays - not that expensive and should eliminate any issues there - they are 15 yrs old.

Checked the side stand this morning - moving up and down circuit opens and closes but with a wobble it switchss so it is going to be eliminated totally.

Jughead based on ur pic advises re shorting the switch just to make sure I get it right. I am going to cut just above side stand switch and use spade connectors so what colour wires should be joined and what should be terminated to eliminate the side stand altogether - hust something else that can go wrong so it's going.

Wayne you mentioned diodes in the starter circuit - where are these diodes located in the alternator??? Mate of mine is an auto electrician so I can get him to check. Trying to eliminate everything.

Once side stand is shorted will retest spark and injectors as per Jughead's recommendation.

[WayneC]

You should not need to cut any wiring to loop the wires, Jughead confirmed it is the same connector as the 650GS so get a couple of 1/8" spade connectors with a loop wire connecting them and push the connectors into the socket

The other models of that vintage have diodes in plastic covers with spade connectors each end plus more diodes in a "Diodei Relay" in the electrical box, the wiring diagram will show them if the starter lockout circuit is constructed that way

I would not have time to dig out a wiring diagram til after work today to confirm the use of diodes

[Onions]

OK thanks mate - got 4 new relays will try and source some 1/8" spade connectors. I'll get this beggar yet.

[WayneC]

That is the spirit, as one who works with machines every day, I will not allow a machine to beat me 

[Onions]

I'm about ready to get out the 357Mag though