General Category > Engine related issues

R1100S no start

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FBT80:
In the obvious section, the side stand is up and I have a fresh battery and it sparks so the kill switch isn't the problem. I'm going to try retiming the Hall using the GS-911 and see what that does.

Jughead:
Have you resolved the no start issue, FTB80?

I have been wracking my brain to think of what the issue could be.  There are a few tests I would do if the bike was here in my shop, but a little difficult on-line.

FBT80:
Thanks Jughead for sticking with me. Here is where I am as of this weekend. I've switched out every fuse with new ones. I've verified that the injectors are spitting out fuel on crankover. I have spark ( used new plugs and saw spark on each but to me not very good spark for new plugs, but there). I've attempted to set the hall via GS-911.

Here's how that went: Once again cycled the fuel pump, activated the tank valve...all passed. Now on to the Hall. On "Hall setup" you first rotate the hall slowly CW by hand until sensor #1 goes from :inactive to active, then you continue to rotate until the second sensor lights...that's it, and they did. No what then. just "observe". Moving into the Hall adjust, instructions say to set at TDC, (determined by a dial indicator), I have one somewhere but just started at my TDC mark. then you are to rotated the engine CCW to a stated degree and there the sensor must be active. Problem is, with the brand new sensor set anywhere near TDC stays "Active" from just before seeing :"S" till the TDC mark just leaves center in the window. Adjusting the hall to any position never turns the Active light off.....WTF!!!

Also, when I used a LED timing tool made to time this Hall for this application, I would get the same results (adjusting the Hall plate would never turn the light out.)
On the good side, perhaps by replacing all the fuses, I do have my injectors splitting fuel. Pulled the rubber covers of the injector electrical connections and verified each is well connected and wiggled the wire to see if has a short somewhere on the wires, but they looked good.

FBT80:
just tried this:
On the 1150/1100S: Rotate the crank by hand to a little before the 'S' mark (5° BTDC) on the flywheel
Turn the ignition key on - the fuel pump will cycle normally for 1 sec
Rotate the crank very s-l-o-w-l-y CW by hand until the fuel pump cycles again
The crank is now at the hall sensor trip point - in this case that is also the static timing point
Look at the flywheel marking to see where the static timing is set - should be "OT"
Adjust if necessary.

First time, it clicked ( can't hear the pump, but could hear the solenoid click it happened before OT, so I slammed the HALL as far left as I could and tried again, this time it clicked with OT just above center in the window...still no start.

Funky coil?

Jughead:
You say your injectors are "spitting" fuel.  Are they actually "spitting" or is it a mist? (as in a high pressure spray)

If it is just spitting droplets of fuel, your pressure (and possibly the pump) is the issue.  It MUST be a mist.

The way I do the timing of the hall sensor is with a dial gauge.  Screw the dial gauge into the plug hole, turn the engine over and find TDC on the gauge.  Now turn the engine over to a point just before TDC, and turn the ignition on.  Slowing rotate the crank and listen for the fuel pump.  The fuel pump should kick in as the needle arrives at the TDC point on the gauge.

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