Please help, R1200RT Fuel gauge issue

[Skim]

2010 R1200RT. First fuel strip failure at 28,000 Km. Zapped successfully. 3 More failures after that, also zapped successfully. Last month (70,000Km) failed again. Zapping could not fix.

Connected GS 911. No Fault codes.

Logged real time values over 3 days. See below.  Values never changed during 30+ second log sessions.

Fuel strip heater current (mA)   Fuel strip heater voltage (V)   Fuel sense voltage (V)   Film sensor heating (%)
8,63   0,46   0   0   53,302 Calc KOhms?

Fuel strip heater current (mA)   Fuel strip heater voltage (V)   Fuel sense voltage (V)
0.69   0.02   0.00     28,985 Calc KOhms?

Fuel strip heater current (mA)   Fuel strip heater voltage (V)   Fuel sense voltage (V)
1,04   0,02                                19 230,77 Calc KOhms?

Is the drastic change in values due to defective ZFE? Is my resistance calculations correct? Why drastic change in heater current, voltage and calculated resistance?
Did some Googling. Came across the ‘Spoofing’ thread and tried it.

Made up temporary spoof circuit and connected to test before finishing off. No success. Warning still on. So never completed the circuit as intended.
 
I’m not about to cover up the warnings on the dash. Would also prefer to get away from fuel strip.

Considered swap from film to float/lever type. The RT’s fuel tank cannot accommodate the lever sensor. Decided I would sacrifice fuel tank gauge and remaining range if I could get rid of the low/empty fuel warnings and not replace ZFE. At age 72 I no longer do very long rides without stopping and always fill up after typical 300 Km day rides at local garage at end of ride.

Googled some more. Got lever setup resistance full and empty that was posted on another thread.

Stripped, removed battery and got an auto electrician well versed in de- and repining PCM plugs. Stood by while he did the changeover (pin 34 to 21 and 35 to 37). Did a continuity test with him before he left.

Replaced panels and battery. Used the GS-911 to do the coding from film to lever type. Was completed successfully and ZFE shows… Lever. In order to test, made up temporary adapter with 2 off 5 Watt 33 Ohm resistors in series over pins 2 and 3 for hopeful half tank. (Measured 71 Ohm)   

Still nothing. Then used a single 22 Ohm resistor. Still nothing. 

1.   Although there are no fault codes or other malfunctions, can the ZFE unit be at fault?
2.   Is there something within  the CANBUS that causes the latter not to work?
3.   I like to believe that the repinning of the plugs are good. Will check if the answer to 2 above is negative
4.   Any other advice will be highly appreciated.

Unable to post attachments... server error

[terrymurphy]

2010 R1200RT. First fuel strip failure at 28,000 Km. Zapped successfully. 3 More failures after that, also zapped successfully. Last month (70,000Km) failed again. Zapping could not fix.

Connected GS 911. No Fault codes.

Logged real time values over 3 days. See below.  Values never changed during 30+ second log sessions.

Fuel strip heater current (mA)   Fuel strip heater voltage (V)   Fuel sense voltage (V)   Film sensor heating (%)
8,63   0,46   0   0   53,302 Calc KOhms?

Fuel strip heater current (mA)   Fuel strip heater voltage (V)   Fuel sense voltage (V)
0.69   0.02   0.00     28,985 Calc KOhms?

Fuel strip heater current (mA)   Fuel strip heater voltage (V)   Fuel sense voltage (V)
1,04   0,02                                19 230,77 Calc KOhms?

Is the drastic change in values due to defective ZFE? Is my resistance calculations correct? Why drastic change in heater current, voltage and calculated resistance?
Did some Googling. Came across the ‘Spoofing’ thread and tried it.

Made up temporary spoof circuit and connected to test before finishing off. No success. Warning still on. So never completed the circuit as intended.
 
I’m not about to cover up the warnings on the dash. Would also prefer to get away from fuel strip.

Considered swap from film to float/lever type. The RT’s fuel tank cannot accommodate the lever sensor. Decided I would sacrifice fuel tank gauge and remaining range if I could get rid of the low/empty fuel warnings and not replace ZFE. At age 72 I no longer do very long rides without stopping and always fill up after typical 300 Km day rides at local garage at end of ride.

Googled some more. Got lever setup resistance full and empty that was posted on another thread.

Stripped, removed battery and got an auto electrician well versed in de- and repining PCM plugs. Stood by while he did the changeover (pin 34 to 21 and 35 to 37). Did a continuity test with him before he left. shell shockers 2
Replaced panels and battery. Used the GS-911 to do the coding from film to lever type. Was completed successfully and ZFE shows… Lever. In order to test, made up temporary adapter with 2 off 5 Watt 33 Ohm resistors in series over pins 2 and 3 for hopeful half tank. (Measured 71 Ohm)

Still nothing. Then used a single 22 Ohm resistor. Still nothing. 

1.   Although there are no fault codes or other malfunctions, can the ZFE unit be at fault?
2.   Is there something within  the CANBUS that causes the latter not to work?
3.   I like to believe that the repinning of the plugs are good. Will check if the answer to 2 above is negative
4.   Any other advice will be highly appreciated.

Unable to post attachments... server error

Let's look at the Fuse. It can be the reason why zapping can not fix.

[Jughead]

I cannot comment on your "Spoofing" experiment.  IMO, more hassle than it's worth.

WRT your original film strip sensor.  You actually have 2 elements in the film strip.  One is the sensor element, which can normally be "zapped" back to life.  I have done so successfully many times.

However, when the heater element fails, in my experience, no amount of "zapping" will bring it back to life.  Both elements are required to give your a reading.

I would:

1.  Remove the "spoofing" mads altogether and revert back to the original wiring.
2.  Fit an OEM float level unit.
3.  Use the GS911 and switch from Film Strip Sensor to Float Level Sensor.

[Skim]

Thank you for the reply Guy. Always appreciate your advice.

Had this on the backburner for a while. Riding with flashing warnings no pleasure. Scared I may miss critical ones.

The zapping saved me up until now, 72,000 Kms.  3 Early and 7 the past few months which is why I decided to attempt the spoofing, Latter did not work.

Subsequently did the pin swop (34 to 21 and 35 to 37 and noted in the Haynes manual.) Then made the change from 'Strip' to ‘lever’ with the GS-911. Fitted 2 X 39 Ohm resistors I had on hand for spoof, in series over pins 2 and 3. No success. (Actual measurement now (cheapie, non Fluke) indicated 89 Ohms. Might have been the only problem??)

Coincidentally, Tuesday evening again decided to see whether I could find more values for lever type resistance. Just so happened, first pop from Google was someone who actually measured his fuel lever resistance over complete range. Tried a single 39 Ohm resistor over pins 2 and 3. Voila, no more flashing from the dash and tank level indicates between 1/4 and 1/2. It seems the actual resistance of my initial circuit was just too high. The ‘Remaining Range' which I believe is only a function of the ‘HIGH’ ZFE still operational although irrelevant. (Expected to lose this as a result of change from strip to lever). No Fault Codes.

Machined a nylon connector that accepts the current fuel strip plug watertight on one end and enables me to change resistors on other. Did the realtime values. The voltage indicates 0.15V so I assume the resistor wattage rating should not be a problem.

Apparently the OEM lever type float does not fit the RT fuel tank? I believe all RT’s and some GS’ were fitted with the strip? Apparently the connector also different? So possibility of getting meaningful readings without major modifications and expenses seem unlikely.


Considering

1.   Bike age 13 years (60 younger than me and probably more Km remaining as well), I’d rather not spend more. Getting rid of flashing warnings sufficient at this stage, will enable me to ride again.

2.   We stop frequently for bum breaks and I ALWAYS fill in my home town before the last 1,8 Km back to home. So accurate gauge not critical.

Will run this for a while and see what else pops up.

Still unable to post pics (1024) Server error...