2007 RT stalling

[Htwin11]

I used the GS-911 about 4 times now on my 2007 R1200RT. A fellow rider and friend owns it and he rides a 2012 GS. I have been chasing an intermittent stalling problem that started happening when my bike had around 26,500 miles on it. Before that the bike had been dealer maintained. I have all the paper work and see no idle problems on the repair sheets from the previous owner.
       My bike stalls when I draw the clutch in to stop. It will not start up unless I crack the throttle a bit and keep it above 1300 RPM. I understand this forum is about the GS-911, but the bikes runs perfect after doing a master reset. I called the dealer about this idle problem and they told me to replace the idle actuators (stepper motors). I did, swiss made ones, it didn't help. In fact, after installing the new actuators I reset them with the GS-911 and it wouldn't start again unless I opened the throttle a bit. Did the master reset and it ran great. Never lasts though. I looked closely at the wiring around the 02 sensors and saw nothing abnormal. Also looked at the graph of the 02 sensors and neither looked flat. Only trouble codes showing are the alarm battery, and front tire monitor. I changed the spark plugs because one mechanic found a loose porcelain on the secondary plug on an RT's # 1 cylinder.
       Well, that's my story. If you anyone has had this problem before or can give more possibilities I'd appreciate it. Even when the bike is stalling and won't idle it might buck or hesitate 1 or 2 times during a ride, but at cruising speed with 1 or 2 up runs nice.

[Jughead]

Your problem may very well be self inflicted.

Since these bikes all have a myriad of sensors monitoring every move you make, everything needs to be "just so" for the motor to run properly.

The fact that you need to crack the throttle open slightly to get the motor running, indicates that that is what you did the previous time you started it.  It would also support the fact that it runs correctly after the "master reset"

Try this:

Reset all adaptations and recalibrate idle actuators.

When starting the bike, keep your hand well away from the throttle.  Do not touch it at all during start-up.  Let the motor fire up and settle into it's idle before touching the throttle.

I know it is difficult for "old school" riders that are used to riding carburated bikes, but these bike are all fuel injected and computerised and want to set themselves up without interference.

[Htwin11]

Thanks Jughead for your response. I don't crack the throttle at all on any start-up on the RT. I just hit the starter button and leave the throttle alone. But when I'm approaching a stop sign, traffic light, or trying to cross a busy highway and I draw the clutch in and it stalls, it will not start by just pushing the starter button. I have tried it at home in my drive way when the problem rears it's ugly head until I was worried about over heating the starter! On the road I go into to semi-panic mode when the bike stalls and try to get it started as quickly as possible. Cracking the throttle is the only way it will start.

[Jughead]

OK.  In that case it is possible that your RT is running too lean, possibly as a result of one or both of the throttle bodies sucking false air somewhere.

Check the two little protection caps on the throttle bodies themselves.  They are prone to crack and at times even fall off.

What you can try too is to spray some "Quick Start" around the throttle bodies while the motor is running.  Any change in tone or rpm will indicate an air leak.

[Htwin11]

I checked the vacuum cap on number 1 cylinder throttle body and its ok. Number 2 cylinder TB has a vacuum hose which seemed a little loose, so I put a zip-tie on it. Sprayed some starting fluid around the intake glands and throttle body areas with no change in rpm.

[Jughead]

Vacuum hose? Where does that go to? Don't have vacuum hoses on the throttle bodies in SA. You may find the hose is cracked somewhere else en route to wherever it goes.

[marchyman]

The vacuum hose is part of the US fuel evap recovery system.    The tank is vented through a charcoal canister to capture fuel vapors.  The canister is connected to one of the throttle bodies though a solenoid.   At start up (I think it's start up, not 100% sure about that) the solenoid opens so fumes stored in the canister are purged.   It is a reason that some bikes run bad for a short while when the owner tries to squeeze one more drop of fuel into the tank.  That can cause more than vapors to reach the canister.

[Htwin11]

Found someone else with the same problem I had. Changed the cam position sensor and rode the bike two full tanks. No stalling! I think its fixed. I'm attaching a scan I did a few months ago in Microsoft Excel. Is that the best way to save a scan?

[Alexm1]

I find a picture of the graph much more useful when checking the 02 sensor, I use the iPhone or iPad to take a picture and store it with my other logs

[Htwin11]

An up-date on my stalling problem: The cam position sensor change worked for 2 tanks of fuel and on the 3rd tank it started stalling again. I joined BMW MOA to get some suggestions on my problem. One of the known issues on this bike is the design of the fuel pump controller. I checked the connector on mine and sure enough it was corroded. I cleaned it and rode the bike about 100 miles. It stalled once at the beginning of my trip. After that it ran perfect. I have taken it to the BMW dealer for a ECU re-flash. That worked for a while, but as many times before it's only temporary. The dealer showed no trouble codes either. So what do I do next? I did clean the FPC connector again, pack it with di-electric grease, and purchased the new FPC controller. I used silicone grease around the gasket to seal it better. One of the stick coils is suppose to be another issue on this bike, but I don't have a known good one to replace mine with. I checked the connections on the battery and they are good. I filed them to be sure. Someone said they had the same problem I had and replaced the fuel pump. At $365.00 USD I'm not going to do the guess and replace on that one. I haven't put any miles on the new fpc yet. I'll post again after I ride the bike with the new fpc. 

[R1200Marc]

Did you manage to get to the bottom of this? My bike is exhibiting exactly the same symptoms

[Jughead]

Did you manage to get to the bottom of this? My bike is exhibiting exactly the same symptoms

Check my posts above.  If the suggestions don't resolve the issue, check, clean and lube the idle actuators.  I have had a number of them go faulty, none of which triggered a fault code.