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2007 RT stalling

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Htwin11:
I used the GS-911 about 4 times now on my 2007 R1200RT. A fellow rider and friend owns it and he rides a 2012 GS. I have been chasing an intermittent stalling problem that started happening when my bike had around 26,500 miles on it. Before that the bike had been dealer maintained. I have all the paper work and see no idle problems on the repair sheets from the previous owner.
       My bike stalls when I draw the clutch in to stop. It will not start up unless I crack the throttle a bit and keep it above 1300 RPM. I understand this forum is about the GS-911, but the bikes runs perfect after doing a master reset. I called the dealer about this idle problem and they told me to replace the idle actuators (stepper motors). I did, swiss made ones, it didn't help. In fact, after installing the new actuators I reset them with the GS-911 and it wouldn't start again unless I opened the throttle a bit. Did the master reset and it ran great. Never lasts though. I looked closely at the wiring around the 02 sensors and saw nothing abnormal. Also looked at the graph of the 02 sensors and neither looked flat. Only trouble codes showing are the alarm battery, and front tire monitor. I changed the spark plugs because one mechanic found a loose porcelain on the secondary plug on an RT's # 1 cylinder.
       Well, that's my story. If you anyone has had this problem before or can give more possibilities I'd appreciate it. Even when the bike is stalling and won't idle it might buck or hesitate 1 or 2 times during a ride, but at cruising speed with 1 or 2 up runs nice.

Jughead:
Your problem may very well be self inflicted.

Since these bikes all have a myriad of sensors monitoring every move you make, everything needs to be "just so" for the motor to run properly.

The fact that you need to crack the throttle open slightly to get the motor running, indicates that that is what you did the previous time you started it.  It would also support the fact that it runs correctly after the "master reset"

Try this:

Reset all adaptations and recalibrate idle actuators.

When starting the bike, keep your hand well away from the throttle.  Do not touch it at all during start-up.  Let the motor fire up and settle into it's idle before touching the throttle.

I know it is difficult for "old school" riders that are used to riding carburated bikes, but these bike are all fuel injected and computerised and want to set themselves up without interference.

Htwin11:
Thanks Jughead for your response. I don't crack the throttle at all on any start-up on the RT. I just hit the starter button and leave the throttle alone. But when I'm approaching a stop sign, traffic light, or trying to cross a busy highway and I draw the clutch in and it stalls, it will not start by just pushing the starter button. I have tried it at home in my drive way when the problem rears it's ugly head until I was worried about over heating the starter! On the road I go into to semi-panic mode when the bike stalls and try to get it started as quickly as possible. Cracking the throttle is the only way it will start.

Jughead:
OK.  In that case it is possible that your RT is running too lean, possibly as a result of one or both of the throttle bodies sucking false air somewhere.

Check the two little protection caps on the throttle bodies themselves.  They are prone to crack and at times even fall off.

What you can try too is to spray some "Quick Start" around the throttle bodies while the motor is running.  Any change in tone or rpm will indicate an air leak.

Htwin11:
I checked the vacuum cap on number 1 cylinder throttle body and its ok. Number 2 cylinder TB has a vacuum hose which seemed a little loose, so I put a zip-tie on it. Sprayed some starting fluid around the intake glands and throttle body areas with no change in rpm.

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