Idle actuator R1200RT

[Albert]

I have a R1200RT from 2009.
I am not sure yet, but I think there is a problem with the idle actuator.
Does anyone know or have the experience, if the new model 2010 idle actuator partnumber 13547714408, work on the 2005-2009 model R1200RT and replacing number 13547672966?
I read on another bmw forum that it is possible to fit the 2010 model on de 2005-2009.
The first one is Swiss made and €50 less. The last one is made in Mexico.


Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Albert

[WayneC]

The Idle Actuator differences between models (not just 1200RT) which has been identified is the shape of the brass knob at the end of the actuator shaft

The fact VDO changed production location to Mexico would not likely to be relevant

Whether the newer 1200RT one can be used on the older 1200RT I dont know but with the Idle Actuators I have seen the shafts have been replaceable

[Albert]

Thanks for your reply.
I am gonna investigate this further.
I will let you know about it.

If there is somebody else with a suggestion...

Thank you.

[Jughead]

Thanks for your reply.
I am gonna investigate this further.
I will let you know about it.

If there is somebody else with a suggestion...

Thank you.

What are the symptoms that make you think the idle actuator is faulty?

[Albert]

I have this problem for a long time now. And it is becoming worse.
Between the 1000 and 2000 rpm is the motor not running well. When I steady the throtte handle somewhere between this range, the engine falters.
I very rare occasions, the idle drop off to 800 tpm, while waiting somewhere.
Sometimes when I start the engine, de machine is very rough idling. It is possible to drive, and above the 2500rpm its no longer noticeable.
But the best solution is, to kill the engine and wait for a while. And the start again. Mostly the problem is gone.

The Throttle positon sensor is replaced 2 years ago, and there is 15000km driven. So I don't think that's the problem.
I removed the throttlebodies, and clean them, also clean de idle actuators.
I also mounted new oxygen sensors.
The problem is still there.
I noticed, that when I perform a calibration of de idle actuators with the GS-911, the problem is gone for a while. But it don't last long, the last time it did this the problem was already there the next day.


So I think there is not much left, except the idle actuators.


What do you think about it?

[Jughead]

The first thing to do would be to clear all the faults and reset the adaptations.  All of them.

Now remove the idle bypass valves on the throttle bodies and check to see whether they are functioning correctly.  They are located here.


Once removed, clean them with some brake or carb cleaner, and check the operation before refitting them.

Here is a clip of how the valve should operate when the ignition is cycled.  At ignition on the valve should retract.  At ignition off the valve should extend.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/C7dJqVwOCsw[/youtube]

Once you are sure that they are operating correctly, refit them and again reset the adaptations.

The bike should fire up and idle without the assistance of the throttle.

If the valves function in any way other than as in the video clip, replace it.  Some of them are sluggish in their movement (some not moving at all) and others have excessive movement to the point where the unit falls apart when cycling the ignition.

[Albert]

I did as you described, when I was cycling the ignition three times the idle actuator fell apart. Also the sound did not sound good.
So I think we have found the problem.
 
A few months ago I have bought two secondhand throttlehouses from a 2010 model.
There was one idle actuator included.
I have meassured the tip with a caliper and they are exactly the same. The inside of the actuatorhousing is also the same. The 2010 model fits in the 2009 throttlehouse, I tried and it fits. The 2010 model is much cheaper to buy. €50 less each.
Do you think or know that it is possible to mount the new model?

I tried to attach som pictures and a movie, but it did not work.
How do you do that?

[Jughead]

I did as you described, when I was cycling the ignition three times the idle actuator fell apart. Also the noise wasn't sound very well.
So I think we have found the problem.
 
A few months ago I have bought two secondhand throttlehouses from a 2010 model.
There was one idle actuator included.
I have meassured the tip with a caliper and they are exactly the same. The inside of the actuatorhousing is also the same. The 2010 model fits in the 2009 throttlehouse, I tried and it fits. The 2010 model is much cheaper to buy. €50 less each.
Do you think or know that it is possible to mount the new model?

I tried to attach som pictures and a movie, but it did not work.
How do you do that?

Hi Albert

Yes, the later idle actuator will work and you can mount it safely.  Just reset the adaptations (or you can just re-calibrate the idle actuators) once you are done fitting it.  Test the new one first as you did before, though.

To attach photos, click on the "Attachments and other options" just below the window where you are typing. 




A dropdown box will appear and you can select your photo from there.  Just remember that there are restrictions on size and the number of photos you can upload per post.




For videos, upload your video to Youtube and publish it.  Then click on the youtube icon above the screen where you are typing ...




and insert the link here to your video that youtube provides.



The line will then look like this

[schuppi]

Hello Jughead

very good description, thank you.
It can not be explained better

[Albert]

Hello Jughead,

Thank you very much for the help! The explanation was very good.

I am gonna order two new actuators. I am in a little doubt which one to order. The 2010 model is only €17 more expensive, not €50 as what I thougt at first.
Do you think there is a difference in the quality? I read on another forum that the 2010 model is Swiss made, and the other one is made in Mexico.

In this video you can see what went wrong.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/K7g4IqwXzPo[/youtube]

[schuppi]

Hello Albert

For stopping in the right order, the piston needs the ground of the by-pass in the throttle body

[Jughead]

Hello Albert

For stopping in the right order, the piston needs the ground of the by-pass in the throttle body

I have tested many of them.  To be operating correctly, the unit should only extend past the stopping point when it is being calibrated.  Correctly operating units do not fall apart as in the clip.