Q: TPS Adjustment procedure

[Seppo]

Seems I have the pleasure of "opening this section up"...

I have worked now for some time with high idle. Engine idles @ 1200 - 1400. Sometimes decreases to 1100.

- no fault codes in the system
- done the "keydance" / reset of TPS multiple times
- no air leaks (tested by spraying start-gas around TBs)
- plenty of slack in the cables
- throttle returns well with a "click"
- turning handles has absolutely no effect on throttle / engine RPMs

Now to the question: When I run the TPS Adjustment procedure the bar rises always above the center to the right/"red" area (about 1"). BUT when I in this situation turn the throttle that couple of millimetres "off" like cancelling the cruise control against the spring / microswitch (cancelling the cruise) the bar lowers right back in the middle of the "Green". It stays there even when I let the throttle go. Is this normal or should the bar settle "in the middle" by itself when the test is initiated.

When the bike idles, turning the throttle off (like during the test) has absolutely no effect on the RPMs

Any idea of where/how to continue?

-Seppo

[StephanT]

maybe you should tell us what bike... better yet, pls post an Autoscan

[Seppo]

maybe you should tell us what bike... better yet, pls post an Autoscan

OH **it!  Forgot it of course - stupid me. How many times have i seen that valid request  . Bike is K1200LT-99 Unfortunately not near enough bike to get the Autoscan...

[StephanT]

have you done the TPS alignment to the T, with the idle actuator removed while doing the procedure etc?

wondering if Idle actuator is the culprit ?  ...however i know very little of the LT's.. maybe someone more LT savvy wants to take over?

best,
Stephan

[Seppo]

Nothing different / fancy compared to old school K1200RS (or rather -GT with cruise control). What I am wondering is: If everything with the bike is at it should, how should the bar look like after launching the "Start" (with Idle Actuator in place) in this TPS-procedure. So does it go on the "right/red-side" because of idle actuator in place? So should the IA ALWAYS be removed before this procedure for it to give meaningful outcome??? I just haven't see detailed procedure description anywhere so I am maybe asking stupid questions.

Seppo

[beemer]

As far as i know you should adjust TPS when the throttle is closed,ignition on,engine off>idle actuator is in basic position,idle switch inside idle actuator is on.When you start the engine,idle actuator is constantly slightly moving so the bar will be red,engine has to be off to adjust TPS.Is the Idle switch working?That could be causing your problem.I had similar problem before and i had to cut two threads of the spring under the rubber cover to make the switch work every time.

[Seppo]

Beemer: Thanks for the comment. Now what is "idle switch", how do you know it is working? I see only one switch in the TB-setup. The one cancelling cruise control, being at the "end" of throttle closing cable. Is this the switch you mean? If so - it works...

But as said

- engine off
- idle actuator in place (physically)
- power on
- TPS Adjustement -> "Start"

You can hear the actuator driving a moment and then the bar goes about 1" on the red right side. When I turn the throttle to close-direction that couple of mm's it goes (to cancel the possible cruise) by activating the micro switch at the lower end of the cable, the bar decreases to the middle. If i now start the test again, it might complete with "OK" or sometimes it gives "Idle actuator out of limits" or something like that...

And the bike idles from 1400 - to (in best case) 1150RPMs.

To make the case even more complicated I ran the same test in another LT and it behaved differently. The bar went on the right side (red) but did not decrease on the green area even if one closed the throttle. And the bike idles like a dream :-(

[beemer]

Idle switch is actually in the idle actuator it is not the cruise control cancel switch,check continuity between pin 3 and 4 in idle actuator connector,when the throttle is closed switch should be on,when is throttle open switch should be off.

[Seppo]

Idle switch is actually in the idle actuator it is not the cruise control cancel switch,check continuity between pin 3 and 4 in idle actuator connector,when the throttle is closed switch should be on,when is throttle open switch should be off.

Thanks! Another day with learning something new 

[Alan T. Butler]

Has anybody seen a step-by-step demo of how to do the idle actuator calibration on a GS (or GS Adv)?  My bike is running fine, but I would like to try this feature.  Unfortunately I have read on some forums where folks have tried this and now their bikes idle very poorly, if at all.  The typical response from other posters is that the person probably didn't follow the procedure perfectly.  I would like to see this done before I try it on my bike. 

Thank you.
 ATB

[Jughead]

Has anybody seen a step-by-step demo of how to do the idle actuator calibration on a GS (or GS Adv)?  My bike is running fine, but I would like to try this feature.  Unfortunately I have read on some forums where folks have tried this and now their bikes idle very poorly, if at all.  The typical response from other posters is that the person probably didn't follow the procedure perfectly.  I would like to see this done before I try it on my bike. 

Thank you.
 ATB

On what bike, Alan?

If it is the 1200GS, no adjustment is necessary.  It auto-learns every time you turn on the ignition.  That is why it is essential never to touch the throttle while starting or switching on the ignition.

Now to the question: When I run the TPS Adjustment procedure the bar rises always above the center to the right/"red" area (about 1"). BUT when I in this situation turn the throttle that couple of millimetres "off" like cancelling the cruise control against the spring / microswitch (cancelling the cruise) the bar lowers right back in the middle of the "Green". It stays there even when I let the throttle go.

Any idea of where/how to continue?

-Seppo

Seppo

I recently had an R1150GS that did exactly that.  Found the cause after about 4hrs of searching.

Remove the RHS grip together with the plastic tube (accelerator grip) from the handle bar.  Make sure there is no rust on the handle bar where the grip rotates.  Also make sure the inside of the plastic tube that the grip is fitted to is clean.

Now apply a little grease to the handlebar end, and the inside of the tube.  Also grease the area were the cable attaches to the grip.

Lube the cable itself and make sure there are no kinks in the cable casing.  If the cable or casing look like they are corroded, replace.

Re-assemble and all should be well.  Will be like riding a new bike.

The symptoms you describe are all related.

The high idle is as a result of either 1. The throttle not returning 100% to the stop or 2. The engine having been started with the throttle not fully closed.  This will also account for the low idle at times, where the throttle does return past what the system now believes is "Closed"

It will also account for the bar moving to the right into the red zone when doing the TPS Adjustment.

- no fault codes in the system

From experience, if there are no fault codes recorded or displayed, the problem is mechanical.

[bikecrazy5]

hi don't know if you came rite yet or not but 0n the k1200lt at the throttle body adjustments there is two micro switches that works in co-ordnance with cruise control as well as idle. I have found that to mess me around.

just a penny worth

[Jughead]

Any luck with the idle yet?