No response from controller r1200cl 2004

[mayojuaf]

Oooook.    Give me some time ....
hang on, let me play with this...
i guess there are no short cuts, like go no~go..😃 Or if blits you are good...

[mayojuaf]

ok, here are the potential settings
can you suggest the settings?

[schuppi]

Hi
looks good, but BMW suggested 20 ms/Div.

[mayojuaf]

Thanks Schuppi!

and i should measure DC, AC, or frequency?
The red alligator to the positive (pin 2 of speed sensor connector)
and black alligator?

is the diagram below correct? this is the way I should connect the oscilloscope?

[mayojuaf]

OK, i bought a lift and I  have the wheels moving free.
I have the oscilloscope on DC.
where should I put the red and black alligators from the oscilloscope?

Almost there.... one more step....

[mayojuaf]

ok, tested in AC , (no DC) front rear and extra.
got this results, see pictures
The rear was turning slower as I had to deal with Osc, turning and picture 
I guess the sensor are working fine...?

anybody ?

[WayneC]

Well done, you have managed to learn to use the DSO and yes it certainly does look like that sensor is working fine

To avoid the struggle to spin wheel juggle DSO and take a pic, you can save the wave form and bring it up on a PC to see it later

[mayojuaf]

So according to the ones who know what they are talking about
6 things to cause ABS failure. It comes from the gs forum but is applicable to 2004 CL

1- Lever or pedal failing to travel fully back to the correct position. This is usually caused by the hand guard preventing the front brake lever from fully extending or a pebble or twig preventing the brake pedal from returning to its up most position. An easy way to tell that this is your problem is if your brake light is always be on. Notice, however, that it is possible to pull the lever sufficient for the ABS system to detect it, but not enough for the light to come on. This can be a confusing situation.

2- Sensors. If either of your brake sensors fail the brake light will stay on. Severed wires, dirty sensors or melted sensors can cause this failure. If your speedo works then your rear sensor is definitely OK. Make sure your front sensor is clean and wire is not severed.

3- Fluid levels. Tip overs can cause fluid to leak out of the ABS pump under the gas tank. Pull off the gas tank and top off each of the circuits. This will fix a fluid level related failure.

4 - Microswitch problems. There is a little tiny switch under the front brake lever and next to the rear brake pedal. You should hear an audible click when you activate either. This switch can fail although it is rare. If your problem is not 1,2 or 3 then this is probably your problem. If the switch is bad your brake light will not activate from the bad switch.

5- Low battery voltage. This is a the common cause of ABS failure on the 11xx versions of ABS. Usually the ABS will start working normally when the alternator gets the charge back up to normal. The ABS versions on the R1200GS are not as senstive to low voltage issues and voltage related failures are very rare.

6- Bad pump unit. Very rare. In fact I have not heard of one failing on the R1200GS yet. There have been a few replaced but these were diagnoses errors and real problem was one of the four items above.

I tested all of the above but the dreaded IABS Servo. that is the one that costs $2,000 and that they say can be converted to non ABS . Could not find anyone doing it in a 2004 R1200CL

so I won the battle on learning how to test switches and sensors, but lost the war of fixing my IABS issue.

[WayneC]

Well you won the battle re the sensors and you are now moving to do battle with the IABS rather than losing the war 

The fact that the IABS does not respond to diagnostics tends to indicate the electronics board in the IABS may be faulty which is not in the list of possibles

[mayojuaf]

Thanks Wayne, any thought on how i can trouble shoot that to see if it reparable?

[WayneC]

Look at posts by Jughead he has considerable experience with ABS, while I have experience on other ECUs, there was a US Co repairing some as well

[mayojuaf]

Wayne, yes, I just reviewed all posting from Jughead. He is indeed the Master of the Universe on ABS matters.
I will try to contact him via private message but in the meantime I have a GS911 question.

My GS911 tells me he can not communicate with the controller. Is that an electronic issue more than a pump problem? If something was stuck or it had not enough pressure, it will give me the error code?
Is the electronic board the problem?
I understand the servo is not running so the IABS is not completing a check and so all light are on etc, but is the message "no response from  Controler"  mean the GS911 can not talk to the circuit board?
Autoscan does recognize de ECU and runs but when you chose the abs option sends the message of not possible to communicate...

[WayneC]

Yes the fact the GS911 is unable to communicate with the IABS indicates the possibility that the electronics board in the ABS unit is faulty, the other possibility is that the ABS electronics has not initialised fully due to a mechanical/hydraulic fault and is in effect in a wait state

From memory the Autoscan you posted did not show the ABS ECU, only the Motronic ECU

[mayojuaf]

Today I disassembled part of the IABS modulator. Took out te pressure valves? to see if they were stuck. Also took out the filters (one of them was very dirty) clean the best I could (swallow some brake fluid but not tat bad
I bled again the system thoroughly, wheel and control circuits. Fluid was fine but still flush it to get fluid running...(first time was somehow dirty)
So, the good news is that when I take it to the dealer and if he says the IABS module is shot, I will believe him ...
maybe they do some magic and is NOT the IABS... (i have always been an optimist)

all that have responded my call for help, thank you for helping me here. I learned a lot.
I am not sure I am ready to bypass the servo as I have not seen instructions for a R1200 cl . Only for GS or R?
If someone has seen these CL instructions somewhere, please let me know?

Thanks again
and if you are going through Houston, send me an email and will be glad to invite for a drink!

[mayojuaf]

I am obstinate as a mule.
Continued digging and found this on the car's troubleshooting forum. Is amazing but now not surprising BMW uses similar (similar, not identical) strategies in ABS for cars and bikes

I found the following when looking for no abs,no speedometer, no cruise control and all lights on...:
SUMMARY:
The problem is usually a single wheel sensor goes bad (wires or the <$100 sensor), or the ABS control module goes bad (an aluminum resistance-welded wire lifts off its bond pad, Bill kindly ran a full autopsy here). Debugging is best done with a DMM; an OBDII scanner can ONLY find "communication errors", i.e., it cannot tell a bad speed or pressure sensor from a bad ABS control module and will often report the wrong problem because it isn't inserted BETWEEN the ABS control module and the various sensors (see extensive reports by 540iman on this). The ABS control module costs ~$150 to $300 to rebuild, ~$500 to replace; if you put anything back on other than your original ABS control module, the VIN will need to be recoded (15 minutes with a GT-1 or Autologic or similar; impossible otherwise). You'll need to clear your OBDII DTC codes after you fix everything if you plan on passing smog tests that week (ask me how I know). If you need to replace a speed sensor, don't go aftermarket; get as close to OE as possible.

Before you send your ABS control module out for rebuilding, please consider opening it up first, post pictures to Bill's ABS autopsy thread (the rebuilders say they work on previously opened ABS control modules all the time). If you fix the broken wire, post that to the thread as a success story!

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696108

Not sure if it will work, but feel better now on paying $100 to dealer to use their DMM and that maybe my GS911 only said "can not communicate with ABS module"