General Category > Technical
Heated Grip Repair - The HOW-TO.
higgins.andrew.r:
Thanks for the tutorial. I was going to attempt the soldiering, but found out I didn't need to as peeling back the rubber grip was enough to solve the problem.
I recently had a 41741 Heated Grips, open-circuit fault. Right heated grip failure. I'm on my second grip failure on a 2009 R1200GS. The left went out around 23,000mi and the Right at 29,000mi. I bought and replaced the left back at 23,000mi, but couldn't stomach $160 for the right so I decided to take apart my old left grip to see if I could find the break and check the continuity. I cut and peeled back the rubber on my old left grip first to check the continuity and the continuity was good!
After realizing I waisted $116 on a left I decided to check the continuity on the right. I took the back panel off the right side switch cluster and separated the contained right heated grip connectors (brown wire, black/yellow stripe wire). Continuity was not present when checking the 2 probes in the heated grip connector with a multimeter. I decided to cut away the right grip while it was still on the bike to see if I could find a break. Once the grip was peeled back enough just to expose the soldered points I check the continuity. No continuity.
I then peeled the grip back all the way to the end of the grip to find a break. I couldn't find a break. Baffled, I checked the continuity again at the soldering points. BEEP! Good continuity. What!? I reconnected the grip connectors, started the bike, turned the heaters on. Good to go.
Pretty glad I didn't waist $160 without investigating the issue, but I'm really not interested in the thought of slicing into my grip every time I suspect a break in continuity. I'd like to know the root cause of this issue, but it's a bit difficult when all I did was peel back the rubber both times to get them to work.
My grip is now haphazardly tapped together in black electrical tape until I get a pair of replacement grips.
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