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2010 K1300GT

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Honolulu:
2010 K13GT, 30,000 miles. One afternoon to come home from work (bike ran fine in the morning) the bike started poorly, ran rough and would barely hold idle. So:  sudden onset of problem.  Got home, found two headers cool, two hot. GS911 reports O2 sensor voltage about 0.8, thus running rich. Could see the catalytic converter glowing in the tailpipe. Thought this indicated one or more bad coils, no ignition events in one or more cylinders, fuel gases running out the pipes.  Replaced all four coils and four very sooty sparkplugs. The bike now will start and idle and is less rough than before, but something's not yet right. It sounds like it's "panting" and though that may be okay idle for a race bike, on this one it persists to at least 3000 rpm. Have not revved further in the garage and I'm a little hesitant to go on the road, only to end up needing a tow.

Bike has had very intermittent cam chain rattle on startup (nothing to compare it to, but it's a very harsh sound for less than a second).  Have been recommended to replace two orings in the chain tensioner.  That won't be the current problem unless the timing chain has jumped a tooth, in which case the bike may not turn over at all.  That the problem first displayed on cold startup suggest a possible jump, as I understand that is the moment of greatest stress on cam belts/chains.  Is there a way, short of disassembly, to discern correct cam timing?

Next a more basic question: what are the "typical" or "correct" value ranges for the parameters scanned while the bike is running?  I have seen correct O2 sensor behavior, in real time, but for other more esoteric items I have no way to interpret what is output.  Can someone post a tabulation of the correct values or ranges?

TIA

Honolulu:
Hmmm Scottie, have you anything of value to add?

Jughead:
Hi Honolulu

The only way to determine correct cam timing is to pull the cam cover, which, on the GT, is a real PITA.

WRT the lambda values, these should fluctuate between rich and lean.  There is no specific value.  If you use the PC app, you can actually display these values as a running graph.  As long as the graph fluctuates up and down, the lambda sensor is doing its job.  I will post a screenshot for you of what it should look like as soon as I can get back to my PC.

Honolulu:
Jughead:  Thanks, I've seen correct lambda values on this bike, several months ago.  Prior to replacing coils and plugs the value hovered in the 0.8 range, rich enough that the cat was glowing a little.

Bad news, then, about verifying cam timing, although I've gotten as far as replacing coils and plugs, which in retrospect wasn't that difficult despite the humbug of vacuum coolant refilling.

Complaint:  the online fiche is only barely a parts diagram and shows few interconnections or context.  I'm trying to think in terms of sensor inputs to the ECU which could cause the current problem.  Apparently there's a air correction valve at the bottom of the airbox which can get sticky - if this were the case I can imagine that stickiness might interact periodically (less than a second and pretty regular) with the ECU to make the bike "pant" as it does now at idle and up to at least 3000 rpm.  That's where I'll be going next, unless I can get more advanced diagnostics to view the signal from that device.  I assume it's not only mechanical, but the fiche doesn't tell me.

Jughead:
 Did you replace the coils with new ones or 2nd hand?

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