Author Topic: TBS with manometer and GS-911 DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS  (Read 9056 times)


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TBS with manometer and GS-911 DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
« on: May 19, 2014, 03:09:31 PM »
2012 R1200GS  with 12,000 miles

THIS WRITE UP IS FOR COMPLETING A TBS “Throttle Body Synch”    WHILE USING A GS-911 with a manometer.

With no luck I have searched the web, this forum and also the actual HEX user forum for a detailed step by step video or write up on exactly how to do a TBS while using a GS-911 so I decided to write my own.

When I did my TBS I focused primarily on the right cylinder manometer tube BECAUSE you adjust the cable on the RIGHT side of the engine.  As you adjust the right side, the left cylinder manometer tube fluid will react in equal measures. 

When I did my TBS, I stood/leaned my manometer up against the bike “inside/resting against the passenger foot peg, facing me, so that I could look directly at it.  With it in this position, take the right tube and attach it to the right cylinder pressure nipple.  Obviously put the left tube on the left side attachment point.

MEMORIZE THIS GOLDEN RULE.  While sitting/squatting and facing the engine, Turn the TBS adjustment nut to the right “counter clock wise” and the fluid in the right manometer cylinder tube will drop/lower.  Turn it to the left “clock wise” and the fluid in the right cylinder manometer tube will rise.

Before any adjustments can be made you must loosen the locking nut.  To loosen this nut, turn it to the right “counter clockwise”, to tighten it, turn it to the left “clockwise”.

NOTE:  To do a TBS with the GS-911 you will need a manometer.  If you use an electronic device like a Twinmax, some of this procedure will apply, but not all.  I built my own manometer for $10.00 from stuff I got at HomeDepot.  Here is a link to a web page that I used to build mine.    This one calls for water as a fluid, I recommend ATF, it moves slower.

I first did a TBS old school without my GS-911 while just using my manometer.  It worked but I wasn’t satisfied with the results so since I have a GS-911, I did it again with better results.

Here are the TBS essentials;
1.   The engine must be at running temperature so take the bike for a ride.  Don’t worry, if the engine is not warm enough, the software will tell you.
2.   Turn off the engine
3.   Have the software loaded on your laptop screen.  Hook up the GS-911 plug, have your bike model already chosen.  Everything is now ready.
4.   Turn the ignition ON, do NOT start the bike
5.   Go to engine and first do an IAC “Idle Actuator Calibration”
6.   Leave the ignition ON, engine OFF
7.   Immediately after doing the IAC, click on engine synchronization
8.   It will give you a warning screen with several statements about engine tune up, cable length, etc.  click on LOCK IDLE ACTUATORS
9.   You will then get another message box saying to remove the protective caps and to hook up your manometer tubes and to NOT start the engine until instructed.  After hooking up the tubes CORRECTLY, right side to right side, left to left, CLICK OK.
10.   You will then be instructed to start the engine.  Please do.
11.   This is when you actually do the TBS cable adjustment on the right side of the engine.  If yours needs adjusting, then do so.
12.   While the engine is running, at all times, there will be a “real time” thermostat screen showing on your laptop.  If your engine temperature exceeds 130 degrees which will probably put 5 bars onto your bike console display, you can stop the process by clicking on finished OK.  You will then get a dialogue box reminding you to disconnect the GS-911 and replace the protective caps.  You will also get a box saying click OK, please do so.
My bike hit 5 bars in around 5 minutes so I stopped the process on the first go.   I actually did the TBS twice with around 15 minutes between the two.

Several comments:
1.   I have a height of 29” of ATF in my manometer.  While at rest standing upright in the corner of my garage, my manometer has equal amounts of ATF in/on both sides.   The total length of my clear ¼” tube END to END is 20’.
2.   If you want to know just how sensitive these manometers are, do this.  Put one tube end into your mouth and blow hard.  With just human lung pressure you should be able to move the fluid in the other tube upward a couple of inches.
3.   The fluid in the manometer evens itself out quite quickly when left alone.
4.   GS-911 forum writers say that for best results, do your TBS between 1,400  - 1,800 RPM.  I did mine at the upper end.
5.   I installed a Throttlemiester on my bike.  You will need something like it, or, somebody to hold the throttle in-place at your desired RPM level.
6.   The GS-911 software/system interfaces directly with the bikes ECU.   As you do your TBS, IT WILL GIVE YOU A PRECISE RUNNING TEMPERATURE GAUGE ON YOUR LAPTOP SCREEN.  If the engine gets to hot YOU CAN STOP THE TBS AT ANY TIME BY CLICKING ON A PROMPT ON YOUR SCREEN and shutting down the process.
7.   You should have at least 1MM space between the locking nut and the adjust nut.  If you don’t, then take the bike to the dealer and have THEM make this particular adjustment.
8.   You’re going to need (2) REALLY THIN 10MM wrenches.  If you try to do a TBS with standard thickness wrenches you will never get it right.
9.   The adjustment nut and locking nut are both very sensitive, go slow with small adjustment nut movements.
10.   Immediately after finishing my TBS, the bikes idle was really rough but settled down after 30 seconds or so.  The bike now runs like a true champion.
11.   The GS-911 on screen instructions are barely adequate, actually they suck, which is why I am writing this post, they say VERY little.  However, if you just do what the screen says, you’ll be OK.
« Last Edit: May 19, 2014, 03:42:17 PM by Absolutediver »